Step 1: Ensure that the molded recess on all the tip fairings is square as shown in Figure 1: Use a razor blade or file to remove any material left from the mold. Trimming the width of the molded flange may also be required. See Figure 1 for the correct width

I used a Die Grinder to make the initial cut.

I guess it was inevitable that I screwed up a part. I cut to much off the lip and the holes where to close to the edge , so be careful. I discovered something in ordering a new part,  the new tip I received fit much better and was much better quality, so they must have improved the molding since the first ones where shipped. You can see the trailing edge is to fat on the old one and in grinding it down I cut through the glass and am going to have to do a build up on it to fix it. The new tip went right on and only required about a 1/6" adjusting

New tips I ordered where layed up much nicer.

Used a belt sander to finish and smooth the edge to 1/2" using trail fitting to get to the mold line.

Step 2:  Trim the aft edge of the flange on the E-912 Elevator Tip Fairing as shown in Figure 2 to remove interference between the flange and the E-1023 Elevator Trailing Edge an allow tip to be fully inserted into the end of the elevator.

Step 3: Match-Drill #30 and Cleco the E-912 Elevator Tip Fairing using the holes in the E-1001A Top Elevator Skin, E-1001B Bottom Elevator Skin and E-913 Elevator Counterbalance Skin for as a drill guides. Work from the front towards the trailing edged.

Remove the E-912 Elevator Tip Fairing from the elevator assembly and Deburr it.

Dimple the elevator tip attach holes in the E-1001A Top Elevator Skin, E-1001B Bottom Skin and E-913 Elevator Counterbalance Skin for a CS4-4 blind rivet.

Step 4:   Machine countersink the holes in the elevator tip fairing for the dimples in the elevator skins.

Step 5:  Cleco and rivet the E-912 Elevator Tip Fairing onto the elevator assembly per the callouts in Figure 2.

Step 6:  Trim the aft edge of the flange on the R-1009 Rudder Tip Fairing as shown in Figure 3. to remove interference between the flange and the R-1006 Rudder Trailing Edge and allow the tip to be fully inserted into the end of the rudder.

Trimming the width of the molded flange may also be required. See Figure 1 for correct width.

Again used a cutting wheel on the die grinder to make the initial cut

Using a file to make the final fit on the Rudder fairing

Step 7: Match-Drill #40 and Cleco the R-1009 Rudder Tip Fairing using the holes in the R-1001 Rudder Skins as a drill guide. Work from the front to the trailing edge.

Step 8:  Remove the R-1009 Rudder Tip Fairing from the rudder assembly. deburr and dimple the rudder tip attach holes in the R-1001 Rudder Skins for a CS4-4 blind rivet. Note again I used the smaller rivets (MK-319-BS) Rivets and they look much nicer.

Machine Countersink the holes in the rudder tip fairing for the dimples in the rudder skins.