Step 7:   Rivet the 1009 Tank J-Channel to the T-1001-L Tank Skin as shown on page 18-3, Figure 2.

To minimize mess, it is recommended to apply the sealant to the tank skin as opposed to the J-Stiffener. Hole the J-stiffener away from the skin while sliding it into place to avoid smearing sealant.

I started by putting the tank on a bench horizontally as it made it easier to mask off the position of the channel

I spread the Pro-Seal on the skin, rather than on the J-Channel as the instructions recommended.

Sliding in the J-Channel

Pro-Seal smeared on back in cradle, ready to cleco

Ready to rivet

Pro-Seal applied to skin and bracket and slid into place

Bracket riveted in place ,Cleco, but do not rivet the tank attach bracket to the inboard nose rib.

Step 1:   Install Snap Bushings into holes pre-punched in the T-1004 Tank Interior Ribs and T-1008 Vent Clip as shown in Figure 1:

Step 2:  Fabricate the vent line by cutting a piece of 1/4 inch soft aluminum tube 63 inches long. Read Section 5P for more information on Aluminum tubing. The pitot tube is the stainless one from Van's. For $12.00 bucks it really is affordable and really looks great.

The link or the tube is http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1098918109-464-726&browse=airframe&product=ss-pitot

Note: I needed some tubing tools so I got the Flaring Tool from Spruce. I tried it on some tube and it works great. I got the model P/N 437-FB  The link to the tool is http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/flaringtools.php

 The Snap-On guy came by today and I got two real nice Blue Point tube cutters. The small one looks like it might be handy in tight places.

Using the new tool to flare one end of the vent line

Step 3:   Install the vent line into the tank by inserting the un-flared end into the snap bushing in the most inboard tank interior rib and feeding it through the rest of the snap bushings in the ribs and finally through the snap bushing in the vent clip installed under the fuel cap flange. See Figure 2.

Hand bend the vent line tube as required in the most outboard rib bay to allow the vent line to pass through the rib snap bushing and into the vent clip snap bushing.

Hand-bend the vent line tube in the most inboard rib bay to align the flared end of the tube with the bulkhead fitting that will be installed into the inboard tank end rib.

Step 4: Install AN832-4D Bulkhead Union and the AN924-4D Nut on the T-1003B-R tank end rib as shown in Figure 2.

Step 5:   Rivet the T-1003B-R Tank Inbd Rib-Aft sub-assembly to the T-1001-L Fuel Tank Skin and T-1005-L Tank Attach Bracket as shown in Figure 2. See page 18-5, Figure 3 for rivet call-out.

Step 5A:   Aft Rib riveted in place

Step 6: Thread the AN-818D Nut onto the AN832-4D Bulkhead Union and torque the nut. Adjust the bend in the vent line if/as needed to align the nut and bulkhead union. Double-check that the nut is torqued properly because this is the last time that it can easily be done.

Step 1:   Bend the sender unit float wire to fit the fuel tank as shown in Figure 1 and as shown in the Float Wire Bending Diagram supplied with the sender unit. Install the bent wire to the sender.

Step 2:  Temporarily install the IE-F-385B fuel level sender as shown in in Figure 1 and Figure 2. Do not use tank sealant for this initial installation.

Adjust the float wire bends if/as required to match the full travel of the float arm the the full height of the tank.

Step 2A: Make sure that the float clears the vent line and upper tank stiffeners as shown in Figure 2. Bend the float wire if/as required to center the float in the gap between the flange of the aft upper tank stiffener and the vent line.

Step 3:   Final install the F-385B Fuel Level Sender as shown in Figure 1 and 2. Use tank sealant for this final installation.

Back      Home      Forward