Step 1:   The T-1005B and T-1005C Shims are provided as a single piece of metal with the parts "tabbed together". Separate the shims from each other, file-off the tabs, and deburr the edges.

Step 2:   Final-Drill holes in T-1005B and T-1005C Shims. Use a #40 bit for the small holes; use a #19 bit for the large holes. Deburr all the holes.

Step 4:   Dimple the two #19 holes in the T-1005B Shim which will have K-1100-08 Nut Plates attached.

Step 4A: Dimple the K-1100-08 Nut plates and the corresponding nut plate attach rivet holes in the shim.

Step 4B:  Rivet the K-1100-08 Nut plates to the shim as shown in Figure 1.

Step 5:    Attach the VA-146 Bearing, K-1000-08 and MS21051-L08 Nut Plates, and T-1005B & C Shims to the T-1005-L Tank Attach Brackets as shown in Figure 1.

Note: Assembly steps from this point on require that sealant be installed between mating parts.

Read Section 5S for more information on fuel tank sealant.

The tank is riveted together just like any other structure with one very important difference: Apply sealant between the parts comprising a seam through which fuel could conceivably leak. This includes every rivet.

Step 2:  Fabricate and install small plates made from scrap .025 or .032 aluminum to close-off the 3/16 diameter holes in the webs of the T-1003-L Tank Outbd Rib, T-1003B-R Tank Inbd Rib-Aft, and T-1003C-R Tank Inbd Rib-Fwd. These holes are used to hold the ribs and formblocks in proper alignment during hydro press forming of the ribs.

Step 3A:  Spread Pro-Seal on  Finger Flange parts. I used some vinyl fine line tape that stretches to make a circle around it to contain the edge

Step 3B: Pulled tape off, smoothed the edges and cleaned it thoroughly including the threads

Step 3C: Cleaned and taped the anti-rotation plate

Step 3D:  Spread sealer and riveted the plate

Step 4:   Rivet the T-1011 Stiffeners and VA-112 Drain Flange to the T-1001-L Tank Skin as shown on page 18-2, Figure 4. See Figure 3 for rivet call-out.  (Note: See pictures below for how I did it.)

Recall that two stiffeners on the bottom of the most inboard rib bay have been shortened to all water accumulation to migrate aft to the drain point

Step 4A:   Cleaned area ready to rivet. I used some pre-taped masking paper to mark area for pro-seal and contain the mess.

Step 4A1:It comes in a roll and is easy to tear off the amount you want.

Step 4B:   Smeared Pro-seal on the parts to be joined

Step 4C:   Stiffener in place and ready to back rivet

After riveting smooth the edges to seal with wooden stick.

Step 4D:   Stiffener riveted in place and masking paper removed.

Step 4E: The Pro-Seal has come through around the rivets, so I think it is going to be a good seal.

Step 4F: Pulled rivet tape off and check to see if rivets were flush; Some where still a little high so I hit them with the flush rivet gun and a bucking bar and they seem OK. Even using the special die I found that the holes need to be pretty deep to allow the room for the Pro-Seal. I hit them a couple of turns with the deburring tool just before putting in the rivet and that seemed to work better.

Step 4G: 

Step 4 Drain Flange:

Step 4 Drain Flange1: One of the tools I bought awhile back was a Long squeezer yoke and it has come in handy and worked well to reach the rivets here.

Step 4 Drain Flange2:  

 Step 5A:  Again I started by cleaning and taped the area to be sealed

Step 5B: Spread Pro-Seal on flange and skin and clecoed together. It looks like it is spread well and you can see some of it starting to come out around the edge of the opening.

Step 5C: Taped over rivets and bucked

Step 5D: Pulled tape and smoothed seal over back of rivets

Step 5E: Cleaned around the rivets and the flange where it meets the skin. I can see a bead of Pro-Seal all the way around the gap so I think it is sealed pretty well.

Step 6:   Rivet the T-1003C-R Tank Inbd Rib-Fwd, T-1004-L Tank Interior Ribs, and T-1003-L Tank Outboard Rib, to the T-1001-L Tank Skin as shown on page 18-2, Figure 5. See Figure 3 for rivet call-outs. Note: Again I started by cleaning and taping the area to be sealed, this is the Inbd-fwd rib described as the one to start with.

Begin with the tank Inbd rib-fwd and progress from inboard to outboard, finishing with the tank outboard rib.

Step 6A:   Squeezing the rivets in the nose rib.

Step 6B:   Spread Pro-Seal along the rib and over the rivets

Step 6C:   Started to prepare interior ribs for sealing

Step 6D:   First interior rib riveted and sealed in place.

Note: This page is getting a little long but I have found a sequence that I like doing on the interior ribs, so I added a page on how I am doing it. To see it click here

Started organizing  left wing to work on bottom skin.

Here it is flipped over. It looks like using the table to rivet it on will allow pretty good access.

The shop is getting a little disorganized, and I am starting to spend to much time looking for things, so I am re-doing shelf's. One great thing about slot board is it lasts forever and lends itself to changing displays around.

Got all the parts sorted according to what parts of the various components they are used in, Flaps, Ailerons, Wing, etc.

Laid wings out  across the shop to position right wing to start working on with fuselage in center. This airplane is going to be a Big, Nice Aircraft with plenty of room for me in front. I am a 6'2' and weight to much (280)

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