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| Figure
1 Page 7-10 |
Step 2-
Cleco the R-1002 Spar to the R-1010 Shear
Clips , then Rivet them together using the rivets shown in
figure 1 (LP4-3 Pop Rivets)
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| Figure
2 Page 7-10
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| Step 3- Rivet
the R-1004 Bottom Rib, The R-1005 Horn, and the R-1007 striker
plates to the R-1002 Spar Web using the rivets called out
in figure 2 The top hole in the striker plate and the
corresponding hole in the horn are both countersunk |
| Figure
3 Page 7-10 |
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| Figure
1 Page 7-11 Riveting the leading and trailing
edges and locating the counterbalance weight |
| Step 1 we used the bucking bar we made to
accomplish this step see page |
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Step 2-

Make a slight bend along the leading edge of
the skin which is on the outside (it does not matter which skin
overlaps the other) |
Roll the
leading edge of the skins according to the instructions in
section 5J. However try 1-1/4 inch pipe. Also due to the size of
the rudder is is easier to roll one section of the leading edge
at a time. Begin by rolling the section of leading edge closest
to the counterbalance rib, then roll the middle section, and
finally th4e section closest to the horn. |


Cleco the leading edges together, final
drill them with a #30 drill, then rivets them together with the
rivets called out on Page 7-12, Figure 3.(AD-41-ABS) |
| Figure
2 Page 7-11 |
Cle
Step 3-
Cleco the the skins to the three forward holes in the side flanges of
the R-1003 Top Rib and R-1012 Counterbalance Rib as shown in Figure
2.
Center the R-1014 Counterbalance weight on the
front flanges of the top rib and counterbalance rib. Flush
the counter balance weight with the upper edge of the top rib
flange, then clamp the weight to the ribs. Match
Drill the two holes of the counter balance weight to the ribs. using
a #19 drill Step 4- Temporarily
secure the R-1014 Counterbalance weight to the front of the
R-1003 Top Rib and the R-1012 Counterbalance rib with #8 screws.
It is not necessary to counter sink the weight yet as it will be
done later. 
Step 5- With
your fingers, fold the skins around the counterbalance weights
just enough to leave a crease, then remove the counterbalance
weight. |
| Figure
3 Page 7-11 |
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Step 6- Clamp
the skins, along the crease, between two pieces of wood.
(sand a round radius) Using a soft face hammer, bend the skins
about 85 degrees Hold the wood securely to prevent the hammer
strikes from buckling the skins behind the wood blocks. To
prevent marks on the skin hold another piece of wood over the
skin and hammer on the wood instead of directly on the skin.
Temporarily reinstall the R-1014 Counter
Weight (put the screws in from the rib side of the weight just
to located it)
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Step 1- once again, cleco the top and counter balance ribs as
shown in figure 1. Tape the edge of the overlapping skin
securely to the underlying skin.
Remove one of the #8 screws holding the counterbalance
weight in place and insert a #19 drill bit into the hole. As
shown in the figure (Figure 1 Page 7-12) backup the skins
with a block of wood and strike the drill bit with a
hammer to leave a mark on the skin. Rotate the drill bit 90 degrees
then strike it again. Replace the screw and repeat the process
for the counterbalance weight hole in the other rib.
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Remove the clecos. The mark in the skin is in the form of
a dimple with the concave portion of the dimple on the inside
surface of the skin. Pull back the skin and drill the two
dimples with a #40 Drill. Cleco the skins back in place, with
the frilled skin on top, re-tape to pull the skins tight, then
match drill one of the holes into the the unmarked skin with a
#40 drill. Cleco this hole then match drill the other hole with
the same drill. Now remove one of the screws holding the
counterbalance weight in place and drill through the entire
assembly with a #19 drill. Replace the screw, then drill the
other side. |
Step 2- Deburr holes and put
a light bend along the edge of the outside skin. Dimple both
skins for #8 screw.
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Machine counter sink the Counter Balance
weight to accept the dimples. |
Step 3- Secure the
counter balance weight by installing the hardware shown in
figure 2. |
Step 4- If the skins
"pillow" between the screws, drill a #30 hole directly
between the two screws into the skins and the counterbalance
weight. You might get lucky and hit the hole already in the weight but,
if not, you have a matching hole anyway. We
did not get lucky!
Remove the two screw and drill out the hole just drilled
in the weight with a #19 drill(only the skins are riveted, the
#19 hole in the weight provides clearance for the body of the
rivet). Deburr the skin holes, dimple for a 1/8"flush
rivet, and replace the hardware. Install a CS4-4 in the dimpled
hole.
Step 5- Rivet the
remaining twelve matching holes in the skins, top rib, and
counterbalance rib with the rivets shown in fig 3 (AN426AD3-3) |
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