Rudder
November 20, 2003

Figure 1 Page 7-10
Step 2- 

Cleco the R-1002 Spar to the R-1010 Shear Clips , then Rivet them together using the rivets shown in figure 1 (LP4-3  Pop Rivets)

Figure 2 Page 7-10
Step 3- Rivet the R-1004 Bottom Rib, The R-1005 Horn, and the R-1007 striker plates  to the R-1002 Spar Web using the rivets called out in figure 2 The top hole in the striker plate and the corresponding hole in the horn are both countersunk
Figure 3 Page 7-10
Figure 1 Page 7-11 Riveting the leading and trailing edges and locating the counterbalance weight
Step 1 we used the bucking bar we made to accomplish this step see page
 

Step 2- 

Make a slight bend along the leading edge of the skin which is on the outside (it does not matter which skin overlaps the other) 

Roll the leading edge of the skins according to the instructions in section 5J. However try 1-1/4 inch pipe. Also due to the size of the rudder is is easier to roll one section of the leading edge at a time. Begin by rolling the section of leading edge closest to the counterbalance rib, then roll the middle section, and finally th4e section closest to the horn.

Cleco the leading edges together, final drill them with a #30 drill, then rivets them together with the rivets called out on Page 7-12, Figure 3.(AD-41-ABS)

Figure 2 Page 7-11
Cle 

Step 3-  Cleco the the skins to the three forward holes in the side flanges of the R-1003 Top Rib and R-1012 Counterbalance Rib as shown in Figure 2.

Center the R-1014 Counterbalance weight on the front flanges of the top rib and counterbalance rib. Flush the counter balance weight with the upper edge of the top rib flange, then clamp the weight to the ribs.

Match Drill the two holes of the counter balance weight to the ribs. using a #19 drill

Step 4- Temporarily secure the R-1014 Counterbalance weight to the front of the R-1003 Top Rib and the R-1012 Counterbalance rib with #8 screws. It is not necessary to counter sink the weight yet as it will be done later.

Step 5- With your fingers, fold the skins around the counterbalance weights just enough to leave a crease, then remove the counterbalance weight.

Figure 3 Page 7-11

Step 6- Clamp the skins, along the crease, between two pieces of wood. (sand a round radius) Using a soft face hammer, bend the skins about 85 degrees Hold the wood securely to prevent the hammer strikes from buckling the skins behind the wood blocks. To prevent marks on the skin hold another piece of wood over the skin and hammer on the wood instead of directly on the skin.

Temporarily reinstall the R-1014 Counter Weight (put the screws in from the rib side of the weight just to located it)

 

 

Step 1- once again, cleco the top and counter balance ribs as shown in figure 1. Tape the edge of the overlapping skin securely to the underlying skin.

Remove one of the #8 screws holding the counterbalance weight in place and insert a #19 drill bit into the hole. As shown  in the figure (Figure 1 Page 7-12) backup the skins with a block of wood and strike the drill bit  with a hammer to leave a mark on the skin. Rotate the drill bit 90 degrees then strike it again. Replace the screw and repeat the process for the counterbalance weight hole in the other rib.

Remove the clecos. The mark in the skin is in the form of a dimple with the concave portion of the dimple on the inside surface of the skin. Pull back the skin and drill the two dimples with a #40 Drill. Cleco the skins back in place, with the frilled skin on top, re-tape to pull the skins tight, then match drill one of the holes into the the unmarked skin with a #40 drill. Cleco this hole then match drill the other hole with the same drill. Now remove one of the screws holding the counterbalance weight in place and drill through the entire assembly with a #19 drill. Replace the screw, then drill the other side.

Step 2- Deburr holes and put a light bend along the edge of the outside skin. Dimple both skins for #8 screw. 

 

Machine counter sink the Counter Balance weight to accept the dimples.

Step 3- Secure the counter balance weight by installing the hardware shown in figure 2.

Step 4- If the skins "pillow" between the screws, drill a #30 hole directly between the two screws into the skins and the counterbalance weight. You might get lucky and hit the hole already in the weight but, if not, you have a matching hole anyway. We did not get lucky!

Remove the two screw and drill out the hole just drilled in the weight with a #19 drill(only the skins are riveted, the #19 hole in the weight provides clearance for the body of the rivet). Deburr the skin holes, dimple for a 1/8"flush rivet, and replace the hardware. Install a CS4-4 in the dimpled hole.

Step 5- Rivet the remaining twelve matching holes in the skins, top rib, and counterbalance rib with the rivets shown in fig 3 (AN426AD3-3)