I cut the blue plastic back about 2 1/2" and used my Automotive DA Orbital sander. It allowed me to get a pretty uniform taper.

I have a pad on it that uses a velcro back sanding disk and works very well, better than the glue on. I got some various disks starting at 80 grit and up to 320 grit.

Before starting taper there is a pronounced edge.

After a little work the upper edge becomes much nicer, you can feel it is much smoother. Need to work it down a bit but not get it to thin on the edge. The DA seems to give you very good control on keeping the taper uniform. (Note the underlying skin will also require a taper as per the plans)

Step 1: Lay the W-1028A Wing Box J-Stiffeners-Long and W-1028B Wing Box J-Stiffeners-Short into the J-Stiffener cutout in the cutout in the wing ribs. See the isometric view on Page 16-1. Cleco the W-1002 Top Inbd Wing Skin, W-1003 Top Outbd Wing Skin, and the W-1027A and W-1027B Wing Walk Doublers to the main spar, rear spar and wing ribs. (Note that the outboard wing skin overlaps the inboard.) Cleco the J-stiffeners to the wing skins.

NOTE: DO Not drill the aft most row of holes in each top skin. These holes will attach the gap fairings in Section 20.

Step 2:   Final-Drill #40 all holes common to the top wing skins and spars, J-stiffeners, wing walk doublers and ribs. NOTE: I made a small dot with a Sharpie Marker when they are drilled. It only takes a minute or two more so I can tell which ones are done.. I am going to wipe the dot off as they are deburred , and it will tell the ones that are deburred.

Final-Drill #40 the two holes that will be used to attach the aft most inboard nutplate to the W-1002 Top Inbd Wing Skin (holes are called out in Figure 1.)

Step 3:   Final-Drill #19 the screw holes for the nutplate that will be installed along the inboard edge of the W-1002 Top Inbd Wing Skin as shown in Figure 1. Dimple the aft most screw hole for a #8 flush head screw (See Figure 1)

Then machine countersink the rest of the screw holes for a #8 flush head screw dimple.

 Machine countersink all the rivet holes that correspond to the W-1027A and W-1027 B Wing Walk Doublers for the head of an AN426AD3 rivet.

Step 4:   Disassemble the parts clecoed on in Step 1 from the wing assembly. NOTE: I am deburring wiping of the black dots I marked when they were match-drilled. I am using my new deburring tool in the cordless drill. I had a close look thru the magnifying glass to compare the deburring done with it as compared to the hand tool. It only takes a tiny bit off, but I think it looks good and it definitely speeds things up as it does both sides at one.

Step 5:  To Make a more aesthetically pleasing joint between the top wing skins it is permissible to remove material  from the edges of the skins as shown in Figure 2. Remove material as shown in Figure 2, Section A-A from the top outboard side of W-1002 Top Inboard Wing Skin and the lower inboard side of the W-1003 Top Outbd Wing Skin to create a smooth transition from one skin to another along the chord wise portion of the skin joint. Remove material from the top outboard forward edge of the to Inbd wing skin to allow the top surface of the top outbd wing skin to be flush with the top surface of the tank skin (use a scrap piece of A3-032 to simulate the tank skin as shown in Figure 2, Section B-B

Prime all parts if/as desired. I have switched to Sherwin Williams PSE 4600 two part Epoxy Primer to try it out. I like it and am going to continue to use it.

Step 6: Deburr the edges and holes of all parts. Dimple the W-1002 and W-1003 Top Wing Skins

Dimple the W-1028A and 1028B Wing Box J-stiffeners (note the screw holes on the inboard edge of the top Inbd Wing Skin have already been machine countersunk or dimples in Step 3).

 Dimple the holes on the upper flange of the rear spar and upper flange of all the the four inboard most wing ribs.

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